看英伦新锐设计师

每年英国时装局与Vogue合辨BFC/ Vogue Designer Fashion Fund, 鼓励当地突出的新一代独立设计师, 推动时尚产业的发展。最近刚公佈今年的入选者名单, Roksanda Ilincic, Mary Katrantzou, Nicholas Kirkwood, Peter Pilotto 和Emilia Wickstead。
5位设计师中, 以创作风格而言, 我较欣赏Nicholas Kirkwood和Peter Pilotto。 Nicholas Kirkwood毕业於Central St. Martins, 曾跟随Philip Treacy, 05年推出自家的鞋履品牌, 设计带着独特的雕塑形态, 风格华丽富幻想力而edgy。 Peter Pilotto则由两位来自比利时时装名校Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts的Peter Pilotto和Christopher De Vos 创办於2007年, 设计轮廓带著柔和的建築形态, 结合华丽的布料和抽象的印花图案。但从市场角度而言, 我则较看好Roksanda Ilincic, 走中高端路线, 几千元一件衣服, 晚礼服才约一万多, 设计风格简洁女性化, 色彩图案鲜明俐落, 实穿性强, 顾客羣广泛多了!
对於任何设计师品牌, 除了须拥有独特鲜明的风格, 让市场易於识别, 特别是走高端路线, 才可以说服顾客掏腰包, 最重要还须懂得定价。 再贵的东西也有人买, 但知名度和地位若未是天王巨星, 定价却是天王级数, 动辄过万元至数万元一件衣服, 则最後只有赶客, 结果品牌往往走不下去。
看几位新锐英伦设计师品牌货品的定价, 除了Roksanda Ilincic外, 其他4位都偏高, 像Peter Pilotto的一条图案连身裙过万元, Mary Katrantzou的小礼服裙虽则漂亮, 但动辄售叁万多四万。 消费者对他们却这样陌生, 爱时装的相信则该还会懂得Nicholas Kirkwood 和Roksanda Ilincic。 定价过高的新锐品牌, 顾客对像除了对穿着知名品牌衣服已不耐烦的有钱女人, 我没想到其他, 至少如我者一般女性会先考虑以相同的价钱去买知名品牌的占最多。
( Janice Wong 微博: http://weibo.com/janicewong)
2013S/S

关于 janicewong

王丽仪Janice,知名时尚作家及评论人,著作包括《我的时尚骚灵》及《时尚风云25年 》。1990年代首位实况报导国际四大时装周华语编辑,引领时装周出版潮流。美国CNN.Com讚誉王氏为 “香港首位真正时装权威”, 荣获中国南方都市报《2013深港生活大奖年度风尚人物奖 》、香港《 Jessica Code 永恒魅力时尚偶像大奖 》( 2013) 及《Yahoo 时尚编辑之选风尚大奖》(2011), 亦被Louis Vuitton邀请作为香港形像大使之一,参与拍摄微电影《When Hong Kong Is A Woman》( 2012 )。2013年Louis Vuitton更为王氏举办她的第二本著作《时尚风云25 年》新书发佈签名及座谈会, 并於香港旗舰店独家发售签名本, 被中国浙江图书馆及澳门中央图书馆列为藏品。
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