看Alexander Wang接掌Balenciaga

不是马後炮, Nicolas Ghesquiere 离开任职15年的Balenciaga, 由美籍华裔设计师Alexander Wang接任创作总监, 我去年接受内地ELLE中文网访问时, 我已认为Alexander Wang是芸芸新锐设计师裏最具潜力的。因为他兼具设计才华和商业头脑, 设计风格很纽约下城, 前卫的剪裁结合中性化美学和运动风,散发一份冷酷的型格感, 準确捕捉80後女生的著装风格和喜好, 不是上一代女性最爱的那种甜蜜蜜娇滴滴。而衣服售价亦瞄準80後, 平均货价约数千元, 不须是富二代的一般年轻人也可以负担。有别於好些年轻设计师常摸不通目标顾客羣心理, 货价却与一线大牌无异, 谁买? 结果往往惨淡收场。
由Alexander Wang领军Balenciaga, 正如Karl Lagerfeld所言: “相信能扩阔市场。” 不光是年轻人市场, 还有大中华! 由华裔设计师出任高端一线时尚大品牌的创作总监也还是头一遭, Kenzo和Cacharel虽亦由华裔设计师当主帅, 但不可与Balenciaga同日而语, 就如半岛Gaddi’s与Pawn之别。熟读时装史的都知道Balenciaga源於1937年Cistobal Balenciaga在巴黎创办的高级订製时装屋, 与後来的Christian Dior 共同象徵了四、五十年代的巴黎高级云裳, 主宰潮流。中国人必然对Alexander Wang 统领这样一个富深厚时装历史和文化的高端一线时尚品牌感到光荣, 敲锣打鼓欢欣雀跃, 他的Balenciaga作品未登场便已先替品牌赚尽宣传和人气。
倒是看到他老爸接受媒体访问时, 将年仅28岁的儿子捧为”天才神童”, 说:”他自小已极具绘画天份, 但没有特别去学啊!没想到他16岁时, 为大哥的婚礼安排了一场时装秀, 由设计到缝製均由他一手包办, 获得全场500位宾客大讚。後来哥哥把影片寄给知名的纽约Parsons School of Design, 学院立即邀他跳班入读。但他坚持在18岁高中毕业後才入学, 结果二年级时教授已说再没东西可以教他, 於是辍学。”
我不由得失笑!孰真孰假? 我只知道品牌学第一步, 有家世历史承传的贩卖家世历史, 没有的则宣扬是旷世奇才, 一样可以谱写传奇, 文艺界已常出现天才神童和少年, 如今时尚圈亦如是。
( Janice Wong 微博: http://weibo.com/janicewong)

关于 janicewong

王丽仪Janice,知名时尚作家及评论人,著作包括《我的时尚骚灵》及《时尚风云25年 》。1990年代首位实况报导国际四大时装周华语编辑,引领时装周出版潮流。美国CNN.Com讚誉王氏为 “香港首位真正时装权威”, 荣获中国南方都市报《2013深港生活大奖年度风尚人物奖 》、香港《 Jessica Code 永恒魅力时尚偶像大奖 》( 2013) 及《Yahoo 时尚编辑之选风尚大奖》(2011), 亦被Louis Vuitton邀请作为香港形像大使之一,参与拍摄微电影《When Hong Kong Is A Woman》( 2012 )。2013年Louis Vuitton更为王氏举办她的第二本著作《时尚风云25 年》新书发佈签名及座谈会, 并於香港旗舰店独家发售签名本, 被中国浙江图书馆及澳门中央图书馆列为藏品。
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